SOTA - Raft River Hat Trick

In pouring over SOTA Maps a couple years ago, I noticed a location where three 8-point peaks were in close proximity:

• W7U/BO-002 - an unnamed peak "9335," 
• W7U/NU-045 - George Peak, and 
• W7U/BO-001 - Bull Mountain

After three attempts and hours on Google Earth, I finally figured out how to get up there. This post is an attempt to make the directions more clear for others--with luck, this can be a 24-point day!

I first activated George and Bull back in 2018. Didn't make it back until ARRL's 2020 Field Day, when I activated 9335 and George the day before Field Day, and participated in Field Day from Bull Mountain (until the wind hit sustained gusts over 40 mph and thunder and lightening "appeared" in the imminent forecast).

The Route

Google Maps and most of the other online maps really don't understand how to get here. Plus, jeep trails and routes on maps in real life end up either 1) completely faded and overgrown or 2) on private land. So finding a safe, feasible, legal way to get up there was a challenge! In short, it's a series of Forest Service roads as you leave Standrod, UT:

1. From Snowville, UT head west to Standrod
2. From Standrod, take FS 005 south
3. At the "T" take FS 011

FS 011 is not for the faint-hearted and absolutely requires 4WD (4L, in fact). At times, I locked my rear diff to get through steep sections with loose rock (rock, not gravel - rock). 

"9335"

As you hit the top of the mountain, you'll see 9335 in the distance. Park anywhere that's safe (there's a lot of undergrowth, so don't take risks and cause this place to burn), and head up to 9335. This is the view from 011 about 1/2 mile south of where I parked to activate 9335 in 2020.

 For 9335, you're above treeline so mostly it's sagebrush, grasses, some flowers, and a whole lotta cow pies. The hike up is just walking over, around or through sage. There is a fence line that cuts the actual summit off - I was on the "wrong" side of the fence line but well within the 250' activation zone, so I activated just west of the actual summit.

George Peak

Your next adventure will be George Peak. You'll still be in 4L for this, for sure! Continue east on 011 until it turns south. It'll connect first with 022 and then with 009.

Follow 009 to the southwest all the way until you hit George Peak. You'll come to a gate (might be closed, might be open) and signs about a private hunting club. You are allowed to pass through but you must stay on the road. 

The route is mostly road, with a lot of grass and sage. 

The views are, however, amazing -- you can see the Great Salt Lake, Promontory Point, even Antelope Island off in the distance.

If you've programmed the coordinates into your GPS, you'll find George Peak easily. On the map, the flat spot on the ridge appears to be the same altitude as the peak in the distance, so it's unclear which is the actual peak.

This either is, or is not, George Peak.

And yet this either is, or is not, George Peak. For the sake of SOTA (and since Bull is literally a drive-up), I activate the craggy peak each time.

One geological survey marker is good, but...

Two must be better :)

Panoramic view from George Peak looking from west to north to east (panning from 270 to 0 to 90 compass degrees). Not a lot of trees up here, but very green.

Bull Mountain

The final "peak" in this hat trick is Bull Mountain. I'm always torn up about this one - honestly, the road literally drives across the summit--how do you consider it activated? It's a moral dilemma but for the purists, you can park somewhere and hike a ways in.

The area around Bull Mountain is incredibly beautiful, with plenty of grassland and some wildflowers.

Not a bad place to watch the sun set!

Bull Mountain itself? Not so much special, just a grassy area where cows like to munch.

This is my SOTA setup for Field Day 2020. I lasted about 6 hours in this spot, after moving here around 10 am. By 3 PM the winds were blowing my antennas down and literally lifting half of my rooftop tent. Tuning into the Weather Service forecast, it was obvious I needed to beat a hasty retreat!

Overall, this 24-point "hat trick" is a fun trip with a couple nice peaks and a flat area that's amazing for propagation. There are other peaks nearby, so the area still has some opportunities for exploration. It's neat to have first activations on all three summits but I hope these directions help other SOTA enthusiasts get out and visit this range. Let's not make it too popular, but more people should have the chance to enjoy the incredible views up here!

- 72 de K7JTO

Winter Field Day Prep Project - Yaesu FT-897 Headset Interface

Clearly it's been too long since I last blogged--plenty of catch-up posts to publish this winter. But with Winter Field Day around the corner (as in tomorrow), I wanted to get this project wrapped up - a low-cost interface for an electronics store headset into my FT-897. Yes - I can get much better sound (TX and RX) with a Heil headset, and I'm saving up for one. I just happened to have this older headset laying around, and I typically just use it for Webex and Skype, so I figured it'd meet my needs: a quiet way to operate radio, easier on the ears, but at a fraction of the cost.

After some research, I found this article, which included a wiring diagram: http://www.n1gy.com/yaesu-headset-adaptor.html



The diagram is nicely designed, with polarity guides for the 47 uF capacitor. I could have built this for less than $15 if I'd only ordered one of each components, but I realized my "junk box" is a bit inadequate, so I ordered 10 3.5mm stereo components, a mixed box of caps, and a mixed box of resistors. All told, this build cost $30, with a bunch of parts left over.

For ease of construction, rather than using the brown wires (as in the circuit above) to splice in the RX audio, I simply paired a 3' audio extension cable to the 3' CAT5 cable I used for the TX audio and PTT circuits.

Prior to committing the build to solder, I set everything up on a breakout board:

As you can see below, my breakout board is a bit small, so I had to use jumpers from the stereo input over to an adjacent space on the board, then to the resistor and cap, etc.

 It all seemed too easy - the PTT switch simply closes a circuit (green and blue wires below), which puts the 897 into TX mode, and then the audio feeds along the blue-white and green-white cables (with the audio jack grounded to the solid blue wire that's part of the PTT circuit), but it worked when I tested it. The PTT, TX and RX audio worked great.

With the circuit designed and prototyped, I laid it all out on a simple breadboard. I spent a couple days modeling the wiring in my head, in an effort to shrink the size of the board (my original goal was to have something small enough that I could heat shrink "inline" to the cables, but the audio cable makes it a bit too large for that). You can see one challenge I overcame in the photo below: the ground from the 3.5mm stereo connector has to pass under the trace from the cap. I put a small bend in the cap's trace, and passed a jumper made from leftover CAT5 wire underneath it.

With everything wired up and tested, I drilled a few small holes for a couple zip ties, tidied everything up, and tested it out - great audio report from my local repeater.

The next step is to either trim the board to the minimal necessary size and heat shrink it, or create some sort of enclosure. For Winter Field Day, I intend to simply cover the bottom with cardboard to prevent accidental shorting, and to make a ton of contacts.

73 and good DX!

Getting (Back) Into HF Radio

In 2009, I earned my amateur radio "technician" license. This allowed me to operate two-way radio on VHF and UHF bands (as well as one HF band). That was awesome, because I was leading a small group of scouts and leaders on a 50-mile hike through Utah's Uinta mountain range, and in most places the only way to communicate was by radio (no cell coverage, and at one point we'd be 25 miles away from anything, in all directions).

After the hike, I was enthralled. I volunteered to provide communications support for a late-fall endurance race, and met my radio mentor WB6YOK, Chuck. He opened the world of HF radio to me, showing me how it works and letting me operate from his 'shack' in his home. He taught me how to operate in voice as well as digital modes. In 2010 I upgraded to a "General" class license so I could operate on HF frequencies, and I soon bought myself a 100 watt mobile rig capable of HF, VHF and UHF operation.

Fast forward one divorce and four years later. I remarried and moved into my wife's house about 30 miles south of where I had been living. Our house was in a treeless neighborhood, and she balked a bit at my simple 8' VHF antenna. There was no way to convince her to let me install an HF antenna. My interest in radio remained, but the opportunity to operate dimmed.

It is now nearly 2018. We recently relocated (ironically about 10 miles north of where I was originally). We have a home in established trees, where the right HF antenna can be easily obscured and therefore not detract from the home's aesthetics. I've decided to become "radio active" again and start operating. This blog series will be dedicated to applying the lessons I've learned both times I've gotten into HF operations. It's meant as a "don't make the same mistakes I made" guide, to help newer operators save time, money, and frustration.

For me, amateur radio is about two things: 1) it's about the project, and 2) it's about the contacts. I enjoy researching and planning a project, because I learn a lot and I like to tinker. I've been able to tackle several projects, such as:

• installing a voice compression module into a microphone, to improve my radio's ability to transmit legibly.
• building a CW (Morse code) radio that fits into an Altoids tin
• Building an antenna tuner for my low-power radio
• Building a Hendricks PFR3 CW radio (my favorite project to-date, even though it took 3 years)
• Building several antennas, from simple wire antennas to a backcountry 2m dipole

As I said, projects increase my knowledge. I am a kinetic learner, too, so any project pretty much ensures a better understanding of the subject.

I also enjoy making contacts, very much. Whether it's voice on 40 meters or digital PSK on some other band, it is thrilling to me to talk with people around the world, without using any infrastructure. I'm independent of the Internet, phone or other communications networks (and the associated costs). My biggest issue with HF so far has been that, if you could do something a wrong way, I did it. My logbook is very thin, with only about 12 contacts logged. I didn't feel I was giving much up when I stopped pursuing HF radio, quite honestly. But now it's time to go back and redo things, and do it right, so when I power up my radio I can be relatively confident I'll have a successful conversation (or more).

Successful HF radio is a factor of several things:

• Antenna
• Radio
• Output power
• Band conditions
• Patience
• Luck

My biggest mistakes starting out were primarily due to using inefficient antennas, radios with insufficient receivers, and low-power radios. Band conditions are beyond our control as operators, but understanding the bands, their conditions, and related solar cycles is a big deal and helps the operator prepare, thereby increasing contacts as well.

So throughout this blog series, I'll address each of these (some multiple times).

APRS Decoding - Windows

I'm setting up to decode APRS on Windows with a simple RTL-SDR USB dongle. Here's what's needed:

• SDSharp: grab it from http://www.sdrsharp.com
• or alternativeily, HDSDR: grab it from http://www.hdsdr.de/
• Qtmm AFSK1200 Decoder, from http://sourceforge.net/projects/qtmm/
• Virtual Audio Streaming (or another virtual audio connector) from http://www.virtualaudiostreaming.net/

Eventually I'd like this to all be self-contained--seems like a great add-on for SDR#. But that's for a later date... My first step is receiving and decoding APRS, but my next step will be to use my HackRF to actually send encoded APRS packets.

I've been fighting Windows and various Linux OS's trying to make this work. In this article, I'm taking a step back and moving slowly back to the point where it's working successfully. My eventual goal is to use a Raspberry PI with a DRA818* radio chip, in a weather-proof box at the base of my antenna mast. But I digress...

If you follow the steps here, you'll get this up and running quickly. I spent the better part of New Year's Day morning on this.

What You'll Need

1. Install your SDR software of choice
2. Install the RTLSDR USB driver (the HDSDR site gives some good info on installing the driver)
3. Grab Qtmm from sourceforge

What to Do

1. Start your SDR tool
2. Connect to the RTL-SDR dongle
3. Tune up to 144.39 (North America) or whatever your APRS frequency is.

You should start to see signal on your waterfall. It will look something like this:

Note that I prefer HDSDR to SDRSharp. That's just me...

Getting Audio into Qtmm

The trick here is to pump the decoded audio out of your SDR tool into the AFSK decoder. For some people, this will be easy because their Windows sound card chip supports "Stereo Mix" in the Sound Recording control panel. My chip does not, so I had to use "Virtual Audio Streaming," a virtual sound card too. I installed it, and set the "Rec. Play" device to the default device in the sound control panel:

Next, I set "Virtual Audio Streaming" as the output to speaker in HDSDR's sound card selection dialog:

Wide vs Narrow

I had some issues capturing the signal early on when I was using SDR#. Wide FM seemed maybe too wide, but narrow wasn't right. I messed with the signal bandwidth till I had something I liked. In HDSDR, I have bandwidth set to 18,205.

Qtmm AFSK Decoder

Next, just launch Qtmm AFSK decoder and select "Rec. Play (Virtual Audio Stream) for input and click the "Decode" (play) button:

You should begin to see packets streaming in!

Mini DXPedition

My buddy WB6YOK and I have been toying with a semi-local mini-DXPedition. I brought up the hair-brained scheme last fall and we’ve dabbled at it here and there ever since. We decided to do something to commemorate the air mail arrows from the US Airmail service dating back to the 20’s. We found an arrow about 125 miles north of Salt Lake City, just across the border in Idaho. This Memorial Day we took a road trip to check out the site.

Airmail Arrows

In the 1920’s the Postal Service wanted to take advantage of these new airplanes that had seen so much action in WWI so they instituted the airmail service. Problem was, the pilots could only fly during the day, and they tended to get lost. With daytime restrictions, airmail was no faster than the train. Finally someone came up with the great idea to build 30’ concrete arrows pointing the pilots along the route, and to set up towers with beacons on top.

http://sometimesinteresting.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/airmail-beacon-route-19241.jpg?w=595&h=451

This article covers the history of the airmail system quite well.

Reconnaissance Trip

Monday we took a trip up with Chuck’s radio van (he has an old law enforcement investigation van that he’s converted to essentially a war wagon). Finding the site was really quite easy. We’ve been looking at the arrow on Google Maps for quite some time, so we knew it was due east of the junction of Strevell Rd and 81/30s, just over the Idaho border. We pulled up to the intersection and discovered the road is being rebuilt, so there was a lot of equipment there. Nonetheless, we pulled off and I headed out to find the arrow.

This didn’t look like an auspicious beginning:

And of course, I found these bones just after Chuck made a comment about rattlesnakes and me wearing sneakers… I pushed ahead though and soon I found the arrow!

Sage brush is growing over it, and there’s a fair amount of debris obscuring it, but it’s definitely an arrow. Looking north over the arrow:

With a little more walking around, we discovered we could drive the van right up to it, so… We did! You can barely see the arrow in the sagebrush in the middle of this photo. Looking sound toward the arrow:

The purpose of the trip was to check our equipment, so we did a fair amount of work setting up and powering up radios. As you can see, we had a Buddistick supported on a mast on the side of the truck.

Once we had that tuned up, we were easily copyable into North Dakota, St. Louis, and California at 100 watts. With my 817 at 5 watts, we had a clear-as-a-bell QSO into Washington State (Spokane). Overall we were quite pleased with the site and the equipment, although there are some take-aways that we need to work on.

WB6YOK working contacts on 20m with a Yaesu FT-897:

Some additional photos:

Looking NE over the arrow. The orange piece sticking up in the lower corner of the arrow is the foot for the steel tower that sat on top of the arrow. This photo was taking from inside of what once was a cabin next to the tower – it appears they had two generators installed in the cabin.

Looking at the hills to the east:

Standing on the arrow, looking toward the north:

We have a ton of stuff to do to get prepared, but we’re really excited about the trip. Hope you can join us over the bands!

K7JTO: What's Comng

It's been quite some time since finishing my PFR3. And that coincided with work really picking up, so I have been slammed in my life. I've not been out to operate on HF, at all, and barely even on VHF. Good news though: my buddy WB6YOK and I are putting together plans for a local mini DXpedition. We are tentatively looking to activate an old airmail direction arrow north of Salt Lake City. We should be operating Thursday through Saturday noon the week after the 4th (July 10-12). We'll be putting plans together shortly and hope to have some big announcements to make soon.

My main goals:

- operate CW. I completed the CWOps Club class and have hardly touched a key since, so I need to burn some midnight oil between now and July to get my listening skills back. I'd like to leave the weekend copying and sending > 15 wpm and then keep it there by operating weekly

- operate SSB and digital (PSK)

- experiment with a variety of antennas, including a kite antenna

- kit up a couple project radios and make some QRP and QRPp contacts

- one of these projects is a Rockmite I can take when I travel, so I can do CW while on the road

- order and build a 20m QRPp rig, probable a Hendricks or a new Rockmite ][

- run and use WSPR on a Raspberry Pi, to check out propagation

- shoot the breeze with Chuck and anyone else who shows

- I have been wanting a contact from India, so I'm hoping to get that contact on the DXpedition.

- build my SSB and CW contesting skills 

Chuck's got a massive delta loop antenna he built for a Pony Express commemorative station a few years back when I first met him, we'll be using that as our primary antenna for QRO HF ops. Hopefully that monster will pull in Asia. I'll also be putting my Buddistick to use, and checking out (maybe building) a series of other backcountry EFHW and dipole antennas. We'll have a couple video cameras on site as well, and so you should actually see some activity on my YouTube channel. We are hoping to have Internet access and to keep folks up to date via Twitter--we'll see about that.

Want to know more about the arrows? Google "airmail direction arrows" to learn more. We'll maybe have a few write ups and stuff at some point, so keep checking here.

PFR3: Build Complete

I finally finished building the rig about 10 days ago. What an adventure! I last left off having completed Group 2 and started on a group 3. Finishing group 3 was actually pretty straightforward: wind and install a bunch of torroids, and solder in a few more components to complete the transmitter and BLT tuner. The only really tough aspect was winding the monster torroid in the transmitter. Wow--3 interleaving windings, with heavy gauge wire. More on that later...

Recycling an old photo of the board, let me assure you of one thing: random lead clippings that short pins on the programable chip can be quite annoying. I must have re soldered 10 different components before I saw the lead clipping laying there. Assemble, disassemble, reassemble, disassemble... That cost a good 20 minutes. But finally I have the main board complete!

Next, it was time to kit the box. The instructions recommend not kitting until the rig has been fully tested. In retrospect, that makes sense... sigh. Here's how it looks now that it's kitted, though!

The circuit board mounts into the top of the case, with 4 screws which seem to provide ground. That will become important shortly... Kitting everything was pretty straightforward, although I was surprised that the power tap didn't fit. I had to ream out the hole just a bit (nothing a really sharp tempered steel knife couldn't handle). Remember the comment about the external power? Well, if you look really close you'll see I connected the center pin on the external power jack to the ground (white lead), and the outside of the jack to the board's power. Yes, I'm sure you did the math and arrived at the conclusion I overlooked: this causes a short and can really heat up a battery quickly. I'm actually lucky I tested with 8 AA's at 12v rather than a larger 12v SLA battery that could have delivered a bigger punch!

The internal battery pack has sticky tape on it. It needs to be soldered to a wire. This is one of two complaints I have about the entire kit: the plastic battery case melts before the contacts are warm enough for the solder to flow. (My other complaint is about the documentation on T1 and on the monster torroid.) You can barely see it my workaround, but I ended up soldering to the spring inside the battery pack (topmost row, on the far right).

This is the rig, no decals yet. That yellow color is pretty bright--selected to help you find or avoid stepping on the rig while operating in the field.

Connection points. From left to right: power, BNC antenna, switch from BNC to balanced line, and balanced line contacts.

Well at this point I'm pretty happy. My buddy WB6YOK and wrapped up around 10:30 Saturday--another quite long evening and I know my wife will be happy when I'm done disappearing for half a day at a time. I know I will be!

Evidence: it runs on external power. It runs on internal power. It runs!

My preliminary testing was indeterminate--lower power reading on the SWR/power meter, but the antenna was poorly tuned. My Elecraft T1 tuner showed 5+ watts on 40 and 30 (the tuner has LEDs to indicate 1, 5 and 10 watts, so if the rig puts out 4.5 watts it's still not possible to know anything other than the righ puts out more than 1 watt). More testing yet to be done.

Next steps:

1. More output testing: I'd like to buy a few $0.50 50 Ohm resistors, build a dummy load, and test on a matched "line".

2. Install decals

3. Clear coat

4. I'm toying with spraying some reflective clear paint I have on various spots around the rig, to aid discoverability during nighttime

5. I would love to find some small rubber "covers" to put over the 4 switches. The rest of the through holes are actually sealed, but these 4 aren't. We swapped out cable boxes recently, but kept the old remote and it has a few rubber covers which just might work.

6. Build a balanced line and test the BLT

7. QSO! 

I broke this out a couple days ago and tuned around the bands. I was swapping back and forth between my 817 and the PFR. I got a report later from a ham in Oregon that he'd heard me call CQ on 40 but he couldn't get his rig set up in time to answer me (I QSY'ed a bit too quickly). I don't know which radio I was on at the time). 

Between the dummy load and figuring out the "recipe" for my Buddistick, I think I'll have this dialed in shortly.

PFR3 Continues

Just an update: successfully finished group 2, all tests passed (although due to some unplanned massive remodeling at my buddy's, we couldn't get the oscilloscope out). Happy happy! So of course, I soldiered on and started group 3, which begins with a few soldered components and then a pretext. It was on the protest that I completely fell apart. The mistakes?

1. There are two "U8" markings on the board. Pins 1 and 13 are supposed to be at zero volts with the power on and the rig in straight key mode, then 1.2 volts with the key closed. Odd, I was seeing 4 volts on pin 1. Oops... Wrong U8. On the correct U8, I see 0 volts with the key opened and 2 with it closed. The group weighed and said 2 volts is fine--less important the voltage vs. the fact that the circuit is open or closed.

2. Wrong resistors. As I posted to the reflector:

* Manual R6 & R7 should be YEL/VOL/YEL
* Errata: ORG/ORG/YEL
* Installed: YEL/VOL/YEL

Which is right? The errata and the manual agree on 470k, which is YEL/VOL/YEL. Press onward.

3. While troubleshooting the voltage issues, I literally went back to the beginning and checked every single component. Oops, I installed the wrong captor C24. Desoldering, replace, resolder in C56. Oh, whoopsies... Omitted R35 (I remember now I couldn't find it on the board when I was doing stage 2, and apparently I forgot to look again).

Needless to say, I have now checked every component, looked at every solder joint, and made sure everything works. Finally, time to press forward wih L7 to finish the transmitter, so I can start the BLT.

Lessons? Go slow. Mark your questions. Pay very close attention to markings, esp on your caps. If you're tired, stop--rushing won't get it done sooner.

I cannot wait till this is done, if only to put my quirky tom-foolery behind me!

The blue cap on the right side, next to the LCD? Yah, it goes about 5 o'clock from the Dove treat (my wife is the best!). You can see the big trace, right next to the little yellow 104 cap.

See the LCD display? See the conspicuously large resistor spot traced out in white marking, much like a victim's profile at a murder scene? Yah, I don't know how I missed it either!

See the vertical chip just next to the Dove treat? That's U8. Oh, but wait--see the other U8, just below the LCD. Hello, I'm Daryl. This is my brother, Daryl and this is my other brother Daryl. No offense to the boys at Hendricks. I'm sure this is my careless reading of the manual and/or errata. I've made enough dumb mistakes to prove them the experts! And hey, every problem is an opportunity to learn!

American Morse KK2 Paddle

This Christamas had a special treat for me. I told my wife that all I wanted for Christmas was an American Morse KK-2 CW paddle, because in 2014 I have a goal to learn CW. She worked with Santa, and the two of them came through for me!

Background: American Morse is a US-based manufacturing company which builds CNC-shaped precision products. They can be found at www.americanmorse.com Their approach is to keep it simple and build a few things really well. I was looking for a solid base station iambic paddle, and the KK-2 seemed like just the thing. It is!

The folks at American Morse build everything as a kit, and can ship kits or built product. I wanted the kit, of course. "I build, therefore I am..." Assembly was a snap--took about 15 min to prebuild, after which I disassembled, sanded out burrs, and did final assembly. This is the final product:

American Morse KK-2 paddle kit, assembled

The paddle arms are machined brass. It's not visible in the picture, but the arms are actually hollowed. The paddle tips are nylon. Everything else is high grade steel. As you can see, I've done nothing to "protect" the steel base--there are some rust spots appearing. I'm tempted to brush the base with my grinder and put a quick clear coat on it. That would look cool, but of course have no effect on the paddle's performance.

The paddle does not ship with a cable. I was toying with building one from scratch but when I got to Radio Shack and priced options, buying a stereo cable turned out to be cheaper vs buying wire and plugs and building it. In keeping with the garish color scheme of the Hendricks PFR3, I bought a lime green cable.

 American Morse KK-2 with cable

Wiring was simple -- first I cut one end off (leaving a couple inches of factory wire, in case I ever need that tip), then I made sure which wires went where on the plug, then I wired them up based on iambic paddle wiring guides online. The outcome is rather nice, I believe:

KK-2 cable wiring

The black wire holder fit the factory cable perfectly. Everything feels solid.

The real question is, how does it work? I'm an absolute beginner when it comes to CW, so all I can say is that it's been a joy to use during my CWOps "CW Academy" training class. The rubber feet you see in the photo leave something to be desired when using the paddle on a Formica desktop. My buddy WB6YOK recommended I cut a mousepad to fit inside the rubber feet, and while I haven't done it yet, the idea has merit. But keying is precise and the device works great. 

According to American Morse, the KK-2 weighs in at 1.5 pounds (24 oz). I haven't weighed it yet, but that seems accurate. As I will be operating in the backcountry as well as from home, having a "mid-weight" unit was important (although I am seriously considering their DCP or Port-a-Paddle kits for lightweight backcountry use).

You can find this paddle online at http://www.americanmorse.com/kk2.htm

Elecraft T1 Tuner Repair

I've been kind of "radio inactive" whilst sorting out a few things over the last 3 years or so. First time operating in quite a while was back in October up in the Fish lake National forest with my sons. Just prior to leaving, I visited my buddy Chuck to run my gear through its paces. We hooked up my T1 QRP tuner (actually a max of 20 watts) to his FT-897 and my PRC74 military radio whip antenna. I keyed an AM carrier, pressed the tune switch and man--that old military whip tuned up in about 1.5 seconds. Well, that's what I thought... In actuality, I either hit it with too much RF (might have turned down the wrong power settings on the 897) or the tuner just hadn't been used in a long while... Regardless, I fried two diodes. They are barely visible on either side of the right-most torroid on the bottom of this photo. Small blue components aligned horizontally in this snap.

I looked all over and found replacement diodes at Mouser. Ironically, they are fifty cents each, and shipping is $6 (and it's no wonder--my two diodes were shipped in a mid-sized cardboard box!).

I've been stabbing away at desoldering these diodes, but no joy. I'm taking them to my buddy's. He's got a beautiful desoldering station (no joke--I seem to use it a lot). This repair should go quickly! Along wth testing my PFR, we're doing the repair in the next couple days. Hopefully my next post will be of a successful tuning sequence with my 817 and his Gap Titan antenna.

By the way: the trip to Fish Lake wasn't a total bust. That old whip is resonant on 10m (when switched to the antenna's 40m configuration), and 10m was wide open. At 5 watts with right around 1:1.5 antenna matching, I was using PSK to contact France and several US stations. It could have been worse!

73's de K7JTO

Hendricks PFR3 build, groups 1 & 2

If you've read my other blog posts here, you know I'm really interested in light-weight portable operations. That's what led me to buy the Yaesu FT-817, but eventually I realized that was good for park bench or quick day-trip summit work, but it just wouldn't work for a long (3+ days) backcountry hike. 

I reviewed a ton of radios annd came to the conclusion that I needed to learn CW and move to a dedicated QRP rig. After a lot of research, I was about ready to buy an Elecraft KX-1 (http://www.elecraft.com/KX1/KX1.htm). It's highly rated, well-crafted, and quite popular. Then someone turned me onto the Hendricks PFR3 (http://www.qrpkits.com/pfr3.html). The owner of the company was at a QRP meeting listening to someone discuss backcountry QRP operation. An audience member asked what the best rig for backcountry is, and the presenter said it didn't exist yet. He proceeded to list out the features of the dream rig, and Hendricks wrote it all down. He and Steve Weber design, prototyped, and started selling the rig. Not only is it better designed for the backcountry, but it's also much cheaper (the PFR3 currently sells for $240).

About 3 years ago, in 2011, I ordered my kit. I think I sorted the kit the first day I received it, but that's about it. Life got very busy for me, I went through some ups and downs, and now three years later I'm finally building it. In researching the kit, I found there's very little available on the Internet on how to build this rig. If you can't figure it out in the manual, there aren't many resources other than the group. I decided to document the build process so others might benefit.

I am about 4 hours into the build, done with the first two stages.

Basically stage 1 is the LED and power switch. The receiver, stage 2, is most of the right half of the circuit board. The build is very straightforward, except for one item: there's a torrid with a 5-turn primary winding and a 40-turn secondary winding:

I discovered in the course of winding that there is only room for a 40-turn winding, but the manual calls for 40 turns followed by 5 turns. It was all very confusing, until I emailed the PFR3 Yahoo group. A group member clarified: the 5 turns go over the 40 turns. This is probably the least clear portion of the manual.

Another point of conversation: some people have had issues with torroid wires breaking due to the jostling of backcountry travel (shaking in the pack). After discussion with list members, I decided to drop some wax under each torroid. That's what you can see in the shot above. The torroid a are installed on what will be the bottom of the board.

It's difficult to tell, but the radio is powered up and showing 30.0 on the right three digits.

My kit arrived with every component, but unfortunately I lost one of the RF chokes. A list member sent me a replacement. In the lower left of the photo you can see the stock choke--it looks like a fat resistor, just below C42. In the middle of the photo, between the blue and green caps, is the replacement choke. I love the way amateurs help each other out all the time!

Just another random shot of the main board. The kit is very well laid out and goes together quickly--most people estimate 6-8 hours to build. I'm probably 4 hours in, but a lot more considering the head scratching I went through over that torroid!

The manual lists a modification to stage two which address noise in the receiver. It requires two caps to be added--one in a through-hole, and on jumping a couple pins on another component. I was in Seattle on business so I grabbed the components at Frys and installed them with Group 2.

Next step is to dial in the receiver, then build out stage 3 (transceiver). Finally, prep the case and finalize the install.